Uranos Massif

Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter

AreasUranos Massif › 3.1 Uranostind (2157m)

Uranostind, 2157m,  has one of the most characteristic profiles in Jotunheimen. It dominates the view from the Tyin lake to the south where its sharply pointed peak rises above everything. The mountain itself is a long thin steep sided ridge some 6 km in length running in a north-south direction. This ridge is composed of the main summit and two subsidiary peaks. Despite its very alpine profile it is a popular and varied mountain to climb with a range of routes. The west side of the mountain is a steep and loose slope while the east side is covered in glaciers.

The Route from Koldedalen
total distance for return trip16km   
total ascent and descent1010m   
total time for return journey 8-9hrs
difficulty rating - 7season: mar, apr, may, jul, aug, sepskiingglacier crossingno climbingsuitable for wet conditions

This is the normal route up Uranostind as both a summer walking route and a winter/spring ski ascent. However, the route crosses the Uranosbreen glacier which has some huge crevasses in it.

Uranostind full size mapThese crevasses are a major and unpredictable hazard in the late spring and summer and even in the winter may be gaping in wait under a layer of snow. As such this route up Uranostind should only be undertaken by groups with glacial experience and equipment, particularly in the summer.

The route starts on the north west side of the Koldedalen lake just north of the bridge over the torrent which drains the Urdadalsvatnet lake. It follows the marked path St.6 north for 2 km to a junction on a rise slightly to the south of the Urdadalsvatnet lake.

At this junction take the marked path Ur.2 heading east and across the river. Just after the river crossing leave this path and start to head north to a small stream emerging from a marshy bowl to the south east of a steep crag which drops straight into the east shore of the lake.

Go into this grassy bowl and climb up the moraine on a rough path which leads north out of this bowl for a good ¼ hour until you reach the top of the moraine.

Then head east across a moonscape to the small silty lake at the snout of the Uranosbreen glacier. Go round the south, then east, side of the lake until you reach the glaciers' edge.

The vista of Uranostind rising above Tyin lakeIf it is not possible to start by Koldedalsvatnet because the road is closed or blocked near Tyinholmen lodge it is also possible to reach the south end of Urdadalsvatnet lake by following the path Ur.5 from Tyinholmen lodge or Ur.2 from Fondsbu lodge. This will add 3-4 hours to the total time.

Rope up at the edge of the glacier and start to head up the slope. The glacier changes from year to year but generally there are less crevasses on the east side, nearest Langeskavltind for 2 km until the glacier flattens out between the summits of Uranostind and Langeskavltind. Then head north west across the glacier towards the saddle between Uranostind and Slingsbytind.

There is a icy ramp which forms a glacial shelf leading up to the saddle. The route follows this shelf up to the saddle where there may be a large cornice in the spring. From the saddle a magnificent view suddenly bursts into view over the wilder regions of Hurrungane.

Uranosbreen is one of the few south facing glaciers in JotunheimenThe route up to the summit from the saddle is quite straightforward as it climbs south up boulders on the broad ridge for ½ hour. The slope becomes slightly steeper as it approaches the top.

During the spring this whole ridge is covered in a snowfield, which if icy will be problematic without crampons and ice axe. As the ridge reaches the summit it levels off and narrows into a horizontal arête for 200metres. The summit is at the south end of this airy arête.

The return is by the same route to Koldedalen. It is very easy to return to the saddle and climb Slingsbytind. The return trip up this peak would add less than an hour. Alternatively it is also possible to combine an ascent of Uranostind with any of the other 3 mountains in this massif.

If you wanted to do an ambitious grand circuit of all 4 mountains in the massif, i.e. Uranostind, Sagi, Mjølkedalspiggen and finally up the north-west ridge of Langeskavltind allow 14-16 hours for the round trip.