Slettmark Mesmog Massif

Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter

AreasSlettmark Mesmog Massif › 6.8 Midtre Torfinnstind (2110m)

Midtre Torfinnstind, 2110 metres, lies in the wild and alpine mountains between the lakes of Gjende and Bygdin. Of all the mountains in this region, Midtre Torfinnstind is one of the most alpine. Although Midtre Torfinnstind is not the highest mountain of the Torfinnstind massif (that honour belongs to Østre Torfinnstind) it is the most difficult to ascend.

The Route from Torfinnsbu Lodge
total distance for return trip12km   
total ascent and descent1250m   
total time for return journey 10hrs
difficulty rating - 9season: jul, aug, septno skiingno glacier crossingclimbingnot suitable for wet conditions

Midtre Torfinnstind full size mapLeave Torfinnsbu lodge and ascend Østre Torfinnstind as described on the Østre Torfinnstind page.

From the top of Østre Torfinnstind descend down its West Ridge, abseiling down a 15 metre crag, to the saddle with Midtre Torfinnstind as described under Østre Torfinnstind Alternative Routes page.

The East Ridge

From the saddle between Midtre and Østre Torfinnstind there is initially a 30 metre ascent up loose rock until much steeper, but firmer, rock is met where there is a small shelf running westwards.

From this shelf it is possible to climb straight up the ridge for 25 metres on good rock, but this is grade IV.

The ascent up the East Ridge of Midtre Torfinnstind is quite straightforwardAn easier alternative is to find a shelf on the south side of the main ridge, at the base of this 25 metre climb, and follow it west for about 10 metres to an awkward 1½ metre downclimb onto a rake full of loose scree.

Once on the rake follow it up for 30 metres to reach the main ridge again. From here the main ridge is then easily followed west for 200 metres to reach the summit of Midtre Torfinnstind.

The Return

The descent from Midtre Torfinnstind can be one of two options. Firstly, back up to Østre Torfinnstind which involves a relatively simple descent back down to the saddle between the two mountains, and then up the ridge with the 15 metre grade III climb on it to Østre Torfinnstind, which is then descended by the main ascent route as described on the Østre Torfinnstind page.

The north face of Midtre Torfinnstind, showing the steep abseil and descent from ěstre Torfinnstind on the leftAlternatively continue the traverse westwards to the peak of Vestre Torfinnstind. This immeadiately involves three significant abseils to the saddle with Vestre Torfinnstind as described on the alternative routes page and then the ascent up the east ridge of Vestre Torfinnstind as described on the associated peaks page.

This option is by far the most rewarding and is not significantly more difficult than the return back via Østre Torfinnstind.