Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter

Areas › Rauddalen Area › Midtre Høgvalgtind › Alternative Routes

There are a number of routes up the mountain depending on the season. The best time to climb the mountain is in the winter and spring from Leirvassbu lodge across the northern glacier and up the north east ridge. As this involves a glacier crossing I have described this route as an alternative route both in its winter and summer conditions.

In the summer one can either go up the north east ridge from the Høgvagltjørnin lakes or up the north west ridge via Vestre Høgvagltind. The route from the Høgvagltjørnin lakes is the simplest summer route and I have described this route as the preferred route in the main section. The route over Vestre Høgvagltind involves some mild scrambling so I describe it as an alternative route also.

Winter/Spring Ascent

In the winter/spring when the snow lies deep at Leirvassbu lodge there is an excellent ski trip up Midtre Høgvagltind.

Leave the lodge and ski south for two km on the ski route to Skogadalsbøen lodge which may be marked with twigs. Then leave the ski route and start to head up into the bowl to the north of Vestre Høgvagltind and to the west of the shallow ridge undulating ridge which descends to the north.

Once in the bowl continue south traversing up the east side towards the shallow saddle just south of knoll, 1713m. There is a temptation to head up eastwards too quickly onto the ridge but the snow cover is not so good here.

At the saddle the you meet the edge of the glacier. This gentle glacier is not entirely crevasse free but in winter/spring time it is safe to ski across its upper half. Head south southeast across the glacier heading for the saddle on the south side of the knoll 1925m, which lies on the shallow ridge between Midtre and Austre Høgvagltind.

As you approach the saddle the gradient increases marginally but is still easy. At the saddle remove skis and start to head up the north east ridge for a few minutes to reach an outcrop which is easy to clamber around. After this outcrop there is another ¼ hour of ascent to reach the summit.

The return is by the same route. It is nearly possible to return all the way to Leirvassbu lodge without having to use ski poles. The entire round trip is about 3 hours, most of which is the ascent.

Summer Ascent

The above route over the northern Høgvaglbreen is also a good summer route but the glacier should only be crossed by roped parties.

Instead of following the locked track, Ra.1, for 2 km in the direction of Skogadalsbøen lodge just follow it for 1 km south and then leave the track and start to head up the undulating ridge which heads south over a few knolls to the saddle south of knoll 1713m. Follow the ski route across the glacier from here.

The summer route up the north west ridge via Vestre Høgvagltind follows the summer route to the saddle on the edge of the glacier just to the south of the knoll 1713m.

From here it goes up the boulders of the north ridge of Vestre Høgvagltind keeping to the west of the glacier. As you ascend this ridge the gradient increases considerably and towards the top there are a few outcrops to clamber up which are no more than an easy scramble in dry conditions.

From the top the descent down the south ridge to the saddle with Midtre Høgvagltind is quite straightforward over stones. At the saddle between the mountains and on the edge of the glacier there is a relatively simple descent down stones into the wild and remote Simledalen.

Continue south east up the boulders and blocks of Midtre Høgvagltind north ridge for ½ hour encountering a few steeper areas to clamber up, but nothing difficult at all. The return is by the same route which is 5-7 hours back to Leirvassbu lodge.

Alternatively, make a nice circuit of the mountain and descend down the main ascent route described below via the north east ridge and return to Leirvassbu lodge also allowing 5-7 hours.