Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter

Areas › Rauddalen Area › Mjølkedalstind › Alternative Routes

There are 2 routes up Mjølkedalstind. The usual and relatively simple route up the north west ridge and the seldom used, steep and somewhat loose route up the south east ridge. The former is described in the main section while the latter route is described here as an alternative.

The route up the north west ridge could be used during the winter/spring, but there will be some steep exposed sections and winter climbing experience is a advantage, if not necessity.

South East Ridge Route

The route up the south side of Mjølkedalstind is not a classic but it was the route of the first ascent by W.C.Slingsby.

The starting place is either Fondsbu lodge to the south or Olavsbu cabin to the north. From Fondsbu lodge head north on the marked path Ur.1 for 2½ hours or from Olavsbu cabin head south on the marked path Ra.5 for 1½ hours you reach the vicinity of Øvre Snøholsvatnet lake, 1488m.

At this lake either go up a spur to the west or a different spur the north of the lake, which leads up to the south ridge. Once on the south ridge follow it up to a knoll on the ridge at 1843m.

From the knoll continue north along the ridge though a saddle to the foot of a steep stony and loose ridge. There are large snowfields on the west side of this ridge long onto the summer.

Either ascend up the loose stones and boulders or ascend up the steep snowfields. After clambering up this ridge for an hour you reach the vertical crown at the top of the mountain with a very steep 75 metre wall.

In the middle of this wall is a steep scree filled gully, which often has ice in it during the early summer. Clamber up this loose, claustrophobic gully for about 30 metres until it is possible to scramble out of its exposed south side to gain a steep arête on the south side of the gully.

Once on the arête follow it for another 30 metres where there is some easy grade II scrambling encountered before the gradient eases and you reach the summit cairn. The return journey is possibly by the same route or preferably by descending down the main ascent route of the north west ridge as described in the main section below.

This route from Fondsbu lodge to the summit takes 4½ to 5½ hours to ascend and about a hour less from Olavsbu cabin.

The descent down the north west ridge to Olavsbu cabin takes 2 hours at the most.