Store-SkagastølstindScandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter
Areas › Hurrungane › Stølsmaradalstind › Alternative Routes
There are three different locations to start an ascent of Stølsmaradalstind. Two of these are essentially summer routes, and the third, from Turtagrø hotel, is an excellent route for a spring ski ascent, but is sometimes used as summer route, however, it involves a substantial glacier crossing.
The two summer routes start from the south. The first from Murane is the most simple and is also the shortest and this is the route I have chosen for the detailed description below. The other route from the south is from remote but charming Stølsmaradalen cabin via the long south ridge.
It is a long way to the cabin and as such it might be better to use the cabin as a base to ascend both Midtmaradalstind and Stølsmaradalstind during the same stay. I have described this route in the next paragraph.
The spring route from Turtagrø is a ski classic, crossing 2 large glaciers and a high pass. It is also possible to do this route over the glaciers in the summer but this is a more demanding expedition. I have described this route from Turtagrø in last paragraph in this section.
The Summer Routes
Walk to Stølsmaradalen cabin by following route Hu.14 from Hjelle to Vetti Farm and up Brendeteigen for 4½ hours in total, or follow the routes Hu.11 and Hu.13 for 5 hours in total. It would be best to go one way and return the other. From the cabin cross the Stølsmaradalsøla stream and return south for a km to the junction of the routes Hu.13 and Hu.14.
Near this junction there is a stream tumbling down from the west. Head up the scrub on the north side of this steam until the terrain becomes much steeper and you have to weave between outcrops.
Halfway up the relentless slope the stream divides and the route continues to follow the northern side. Here try and climb up a short grassy spur just to the north of the stream to avoid the ravine which stream flows out of.
At the top of this grassy spur the gradient eases and pleasant ground leads up to the south of knoll 1513m and north of a crystal clear lake at 1425m. Continue past the lake in a north-west direction and descend slightly to a saddle and then up a small and safe glacier to the large cairn a km away on the knoll 1605m. An ice axe could be useful here.
From knoll 1605m continue north west across easy undulating bare rock for a further a km to knoll 1664m and then descend a km to the edge of the glacier. If alone descend to the snout of this glacier and then climb the steep scree covered ridge to knoll 1787m. If in a party rope up and head west across this glacier to the saddle on the west side between the knolls 1700m and 1787m, and then head up to knoll 1787m for a km on loose scree.
This glacial crossing is usually crevasse free, but there are crevasses on the south side of this glacier, and conditions change annually. From knoll 1787m descend northwards for ½ km to another saddle at the bottom of the final slope. Do not venture too far onto the glacier on the east of this descent as there are treacherous crevasses on this section of Stølsmaradalsbreen glacier.
From this saddle, at about 1735m, the final climb to the summit starts. Initially the gradient is easy but soon steepens considerably. The steeper section is best negotiated some 50m to the west of the blunt ridge. The gradient then eases off slightly for a short section, and then climbs steeply again through outcrops to the south top, 1993m.
From the south top there is a simple and short descent down to a saddle and then a easy ascent along the rocky ridge to the main summit at 2026m. The view from here is one of the most spectacular in Hurrungane and Austanbotntind looks especially majestic. The total time from Stølsmaradalen cabin is about 6 hours up and 5 return.
The Spring Route
The route from Turtagrø is essentially a spring ski route, and a superb one at that. The route starts at Turtagrø and follows the route Hu.18 for 6 km to Ringsskard saddle. In April and early May there is substantial snow cover on this glacier and if one is skiing it is not necessary to go roped up, but experience is necessary. In the summer a rope is essential to cross this (or any) glacier. At Ringsskard the sharp pyramid of Stølsmaradalstind appears for the first time. From Ringsskard continue to follow Hu 18 across the almost flat Stølsmaradalsbreen glacier southwards for 2 km passing to the east of the mountain.
After you have passed the summit there is a wide steep glacier filled gully that descends from between the main summit and the south top, 1993m. This gully is sometimes used as an ascent route, but it is steep, about 45 degrees, and should only be considered by experienced parties. In the spring it may be avalanche prone and in the summer it is often icy and there is a large bergschrund at the bottom.
The more usual ascent route continues south for a further ½ km on the glacier passing to the east of the south top, 1993m, until you round a buttress and can climb up onto the south ridge. During the summer be wary of crevasses as you skirt round this buttress onto the scree covered south ridge. Once on the south ridge the ascent route described above can be followed to the summit. The total time on ski in the spring on skis is about 8 hours, and about 10 in the summer on foot.
There is also a route up the north arête from Vikingskard. This route is 5 pitches with climbing up to grade IV. Vikingskard is most easily gained from Stølsmaradalsbreen glacier on the east side as opposed to the Gravdalen side.