Store-SkagastølstindScandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter
Areas › Smørstabb Massif › Storebjørn › Alternative Routes
Storebjørn is virtually completely surrounded by glaciers and any ascent of Storebjørn necessitates crossing Smørstabbbreen glacier to the west, or Bjørnebreen glacier to the east. These glaciers are large and are riddled with crevasses so a roped party with glacial experience is necessary for any ascent in the summer. Storebjørn is also a magnificent, but demanding, ski ascent in the spring during April and May when the dangers posed by crevasses are greatly (but not completely) reduced. The route I have described in detail below is the summer route from Leirvassbu lodge. This route is also the spring ascent route from Leirvassbu lodge. It is also possible, and many consider it preferable to climb Storebjørn from Krossbu lodge in either the spring on skis or the summer on foot. I shall describe these alternative briefly below.
From Krossbu Lodge follow the path north of Leirhø, 1511m, which leads directly west from the lodge for three km to the edge of the Leirbreen glacier. Do not onto the glacier to the south of Leirhø as this section of the glacier, which is called Bøverbreen is a heavily crevassed icefall. Once on the glacier go south for two km and pass on the west side of the steep west face of Kalven. Continuing on the glacier skirt round to the south side of Kalven for a km, when Storebjørn and Veslebjørn should be visible. On the connecting ridge between these two mountains is a long saddle with a rise in the middle, effectively creating two smaller saddles. The northern, or the less prominent, of these saddles has a steep gully from glacier to the ridge. It is about two km from the glacier to the south of Kalven to the foot of this gully. Most of this two km is relatively flat but it steepens considerably towards the end. At the edge of the glacier by the foot of the gully the is a bergschrund which can cause problems in the summer season. The gully is about 40-45 degrees for about 100 vertical metres. Much of it is quite loose and care must be taken not to dislodge any scree. During the spring season the snow often builds up considerably in the gully and the angle is much less at 35-40 degrees. In addition to this the bergschrund is covered with a substantial snow bank making the ascent yet easier. From the saddle at the top of the gully both Storebjørn and Veslebjørn are accessible (see below or the Veslebjørn page for further details)
It is possible to climb Storebjørn and Veslebjørn from Krossbu lodge and descend to Leirvassbu lodge, or vice versa. This is a classic days traverse and can be done in the spring on skis or in the summer on foot. In either season the party must have glacial experience and equipment, especially in the summer. It should also be noted that it is usually not possible to drive to Krossbu lodge much before the 1st of May and Leirvassbu lodge before the end of May due to snow drifts. Each lodge is accessible before these respective times if one is prepared for a small ski of about 7 km, but check if the lodge is open beforehand.