Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter

Areas › Slettmark Mesmog Massif › Kvitskardstind › Alternative Routes

There are 4 routes up Kvitskardtind with one roughly going up each of the 4 ridges.

The route up the south east ridge from Torfinnsbu lodge is perhaps the easiest route. In common with the other 3 routes there is a steep section. I have described this route with Torfinnsbu lodge as the starting place as the main route.
The route up the south west ridge is a variation of the main route.
There is the steep route up the north west ridge from the saddle with Mesmogtind.
There is the more demanding route from Svartdalen valley involving the north east route.

South West Ridge

The south west ridge is a variation of the main route and follows it from Torfinnsbu lodge all the way up to the edge of the glacier just to the west of Torfinnsegge. Ascend the snout of the glacier for a short distance and then veer to the west climbing up the steeper snow and ice slopes to gain the broad ridge and rounded top of Kvitskardoksle, 2065m.

There are no crevasses here but there may be some deep slots caused by surface streams to be vary of. Once on the flat ridge head north for ½ hour up the boulder covered ridge keeping away from the west edge where there are huge drops down into the deep corrie. This time and distances are similar to the main route.

North West Ridge

From Torfinnsbu lodge head west along the shore of Bygdin and up the west side of the Langedalsåne river for 6 km on path Sl.1 until you are at the outflow of Nedre Langedalstjernet. Leave the path here cross the river and head up the easy gentle slope across moss and alpine flower meadows to the glacier two km northeast of the lakes outflow. Ascend this uncrevassed glacier skirting round the north side of a large moraine mound and make for the saddle. The final section of the route up to the saddle is reasonably steep.

At the saddle start to clamber up the gravel and boulders of the ridge which is surprisingly steep. There are some occasional sections of easy scrambling which should not present a problem even id down climbing. During the early half of the summer there are long snowfields on the east side of the ridges apex which can make the ascent and certainly descent easier but an ice axe as always is essential. At the top of the ridge there is a level summit ridge which heads 100 metres east to the huge cairn.

North East Ridge

The north east ridge is seldom used as it involves dabbling with a steep glacier. The route starts in Svartdalen between the lakes. From here beat a route up the moraine ridge on the north side of the stream tumbling down from Kvitskardbreen. About half way between lakes and glacier leave this moraine ridge and head south across the glacial stream.

Clamber up more moraine as you weave towards the craggy crest of the north east ridge. As you approach these crags on the ridge veer to the north and follow the snow fields or boulders up on the thin strip between the crags and the glacier for a good ½ hour until you are level with the top of the craggy arete. Once level with the top of the crags start to traverse across the north face above the glacier while climbing up to the north west ridge. Meet the ridge about ¾ of the way up where the boulders merge into steeper outcrops. Once on the ridge scramble up to the summit through easy crags.

Extended tour

Kvitskardtind is a reasonably simple mountain. It is quite common to combine it with Mesmogtind and even Langedalstind returning to Torfinnsbu via Nedre or Øvre Langedalstjernet. More details on the ascent routes up these mountains can be found on the pertinent mountain pages.

There is also a classic ridge traverse from Østre Torfinnstind in the south to Svartdalspiggen in the north. This whole tour from Torfinnsbu to Gjendebu takes about 30 hours. The hardest part of this traverse is Midtre Torfinnstind but if going south to north this section is abseiled.