Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter

Areas › Stølsnos Massif › Østre Stølsnostind › Alternative Routes

The most straightforward way up Østre Stølsnostind is via Falketind and the horseshoe shaped ridge and this is the route described in the main section. However, while it skirts round the edges of glaciers it is quite long and the return is by the same route.

There are 3 other routes all of which cross crevassed glaciers and involve a degree of scrambling and a route which crosses glaciers and involves some climbing to grade IV. These 3 routes are also described on the Stølnostind page. Due to avalanche considerations none of the alternative routes, or indeed the main route described below, are suitable as winter ascents.

The Easiest Route

The first and easiest of these involves the normal ascent route described below until you are well above the emergence of the glacial stream on the southern edge of the Søndre Stølsnosbreen glacier. From here head southwards up the crevassed glacier to the deep saddle between Store and Østre Stølsnostind.

The final climb up to the saddle from the glacier may involve crossing a small bergschrund and then scrabling up a 25metre gully with a few loose stones to gain the saddle itself. Once at the saddle follow the west ridge up Østre Stølsnostind. About 8 hours return

The Second Route

The second route is also involves a glacier crossing. Leave the private cabin at Koldedalshytte and head north west up a slope to Falkebreen. Skirt round the east and north side of this glacier and follow the edge up to a saddle between Snøggeknosi and the Stølsnos Massif.

Descend down the valley on the other side of this saddle until the steep Nordre Stølsnostind appears. Climb steeply up the boulders and moraine to gain the foot of the glacier then climb up the steep and fissured glacier which is almost an icefall in the lower half. As you approach the top of the glacier the gradient and crevasses ease somewhat. Keep to the middle of the glacier and make for the saddle between Store and Østre Stølsnostind.

As it is on the north side of the saddle the glacier is much higher and one can almost step from the glacier onto the saddle without scrambling up a gully as on the south side. Once at the saddle follow the west ridge up Østre Stølsnostind. About 8 hours return.

The Pionerruta

The third alternative route is a classic the 'Pionerruta'. It follows the 1820 first ascent route up Falketind to the saddle between Falketind and Østre Stølsnostind. This route once neglected seems to be gaining in popularity over the last years. This route also involves a glacier crossing.

Leave the private cabin at Koldedalshytte and head north west up a slope to Falkebreen. Ascend up the middle of this glacier to the base of the wall meeting it to the north of the lowest point of the wall above.

This start point is up a snow fan above 2 rock bands which lie further north. Start to ascend the 3 pitches of a 150m exposed scramble here initially bearing north as you ascend. There are often threatening cornices along the top of the wall in the early summer. Once you have gained the top of the wall follow the ridge north-west over Østre Stølsnostind as described below. About 8 hours return

The Climbing Route

There is also a climbing route up Østre Stølsnostind via the west ridge of Stølsnostind. The best starting point for this is Ingjerdbu cabin at Vettimorki. From here head east for 5 km through dense birch forest, then heather and finally across stones to reach the rounded Stølsnosi. Then follow the glaciated divide between the Nordre and Søndre Stølnosbreen glaciers to the foot of the west ridge.

From here there are about 5 pitches of scrambling and climbing with the last pitch being the most difficult at grade IV as one ascends the uppermost of 3 rock bands. From the summit of Stølsnostind descend the east ridge to the saddle and then ascend the west ridge up Østre Stølsnostind. About 11 hours return to Ingerdbu.