Store-SkagastølstindScandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter
Areas › Hurrungane › Styggedalstind › Alternative Routes
Store Styggedalstind can be climbed from the east or the west. Both routes are demanding in terms of time and involve climbing techniques. Of these two routes the one from the east over Gjertvasstind is probably the least difficult and not as long, however, it usually requires ice climbing techniques. This is the route I describe in detail below, the other route from Sentraltind I describe here. There are other routes up the north face but these are much more serious and outwith the scope of the book.
East Route
From the saddle between Sentraltind and Styggedalstind (which is not easy to gain from Sentraltind as it involves 4 abseils) the west ridge of Styggedalstind looms large. Initially the arête at the foot of Sentraltind is level but narrow. Follow this east for 300 metres until a tower which involves a tricky 5 metre grade III scramble to overcome.
Once on the short easy west side of the tower the arête is again level but now about 4 metres wide for another 150 metres until you reach the bottom of the west ridge proper of Styggedalstind.
At the bottom of the west ridge is a level but exposed to southern weather bivouac site big enough for 3 people end to end; Hotel Stygg. From Hotel Stygg begin the scramble up the west ridge. This is initially up an easy shallow arête but soon this becomes very steep and it is necessary to traverse out to the south side here. On this south side there is a broad gully which has to be climbed. This is a difficult grade III for about 20 metres and a rope is wise in the wet. If descending this section an abseil may be preferable to a downclimb.
At the top of this gully you will be back on the apex of the ridge where there is further 40 metres of easy scrambling to the west top. From the west top to the main top there is an sensational ½ hours walk along the highest arête in Scandinavia with a few short, and occasionally tricky, scrambles and downclimbs.
Classic Traverse
It is quite usual to climb Styggedalstind as part of the classic traverse from Skogadalsbøen lodge to Turtagrø over both Styggedals ridge and Skagastøls ridge which takes 2 long days and a nights bivouac. Potential bivouac sites are Hotel Stygg at the bottom of the west ridge of Styggedalstind or in the saddle between Sentraltind and Vetle Skagastølstind. The latter offers better escape possibilities and usually water in the summer.
For further information refer also to Sentraltind and Store Skagastølstind pages for those sections. Any escape from the central sections of this 2 day traverse could be desperate should the weather deteriorate. As such a bombproof good weather forecast is essential before embarking.
