Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter

AreasHurrunganeDyrhaugstind › Alternative Routes

Store Dyrhaugstind is usually climbed from Turtagrø, or from the entrance to Ringsdalen and this reasonably straightforward route is described below in the main section.

There are also two classic traverses from along the ridge, both of a days duration. The first is from Turtagrø to Skagastølsbu shelter, then steeply up to Søre Dyrhaugstind and along the ridge north to Store Dyrhaugstind, before descending the broad north ridge to Turtagrø again.

Dyrhaugstind full size mapThe second is from Turtagrø along the ridge from Nordre to Søre Dyrhaugstind and then on to the peak of Nordre Midtmaradalstind beyond the saddle of Berges skar. You can then descend west to the saddle with Østre Ringstind. From here there is an abseil down to Ringsbreen and a descent down this fissured glacier to the mouth of Ringsdalen again. Both these alternatives are only suitable for very experienced parties only, and are described in further detail here.

Dyrhaugs Ridge Traverse

The traverse over Dyrhaugs ridge, from Søre to North Dyrhaugstind, involves some grade V climbing and is really beyond the scope of this book, but as it is such a classic I have included it.

The traverse starts from Skagastølsbu shelter at the 'Bandet'. To get here follow Hu.8 for the 3 hours. From here head west up the arête for an hour, with some easy scrambling, to the bottom of the imposing 200m crag. This crag is 6 pitches, the lower 2 are 30m each and go up some 5 m to the south of the apex of the arête, and are grade III. Here, the route traverses across a shelf to the south for a rope length, to a large flake.

The next pitch, which is the hardest at grade V, weaves up for 30m passing between two blocks to a stance. From here there are another 2 pitches, each of 40m at grade IV, to reach the top of Søre Dyrhaugstind. Once this climb is behind you there is a wonderful scramble north west along the ridge for a km. Initially this ridge walk starts with an easy 300m walk down the boulders on the north flank of Søre Dyrhaugstind to the saddle with Midtre Dyrhaugstind. From this saddle the 300m walk up to the southern of the 2 Midtre Dyrhaugstind is initially quite straight forward, but it soon narrows into a exciting arête with some scrambling for the last section.

Dyrhaugstind from RingsdalenThe ridge north from here to the northern Midtre Dyrhaugstind, and indeed on to Store Dyrhaugstind itself, continues to be exposed and airy with many scrambling sections at grade II. The obstacles encountered can be avoided on the west side on the stones and scree overlooking Ringsdalen. From Store Dyrhaugstind to Nordre Dyrhaugstind to the scrambling continues for the 300m, before the long easy descent down the north flank of the mountains as described in the main section below. This entire circuit from Turtagrø takes 9-11 hours.

The traverse from Turtagrø to Nordre Midtmaradalstind goes up to Store Dyrhaugstind as described in the main section, and then continues to Søre Dyrhaugstind as described in reverse above. From here head down the south ridge which after an initial easy section turns into steep slabs. At the bottom of these slabs there is a loose section before the ridge becomes more of an arête with a fair bit of scrambling until Berges Skar saddle is reached. At the saddle there is a 3 meter notch, which is best tacked on the west side. After the tricky scramble out of the notch the north arête of Nordre Midtmaradalstind is a reasonably straight forward grade II scramble to a subsidiary peak.

Beyond this peak to the south is the main top across a small unproblematic saddle without difficulties. While this traverse is usually done without protection by experienced mountaineers in the dry, it should warrant the use of a rope in the wet or with snow.

The Descent

The easiest return is by the same route, however, it is possible to descend down the south west ridge of Nordre Midtmaradalstind to the saddle with Østre Ringstind. From this saddle it is a 50m abseil down the north side on 45 degree slabs recently exposed by the diminishing Ringsbreen glacier onto this glacier. Once on the glacier descend west down the wind formed snow ridge under the north face of Østre Ringstind towards Ringsskard saddle. This is a crevassed stretch and they may also be an exposed bergschrund below the saddle.

Descend the snow ridge until you meet the route Hu.18 from Stølsmaradalen cabin to Turtagrø. Then follow this route down into Ringsdalen as described. This round trip from Turtagrø is about 10-12 hours.

Dyrhaugstind from Midtmaradalstind to the southIt is also possible to descend the south ridge of Nordre Midtmaradalstind to Lovskard saddle. This is a more demanding route and is only suitable for very experienced parties. The south ridge involves climbing to grade III. not including the difficult pinnacles which are avoided on the west side. The pinacles can all be most easily climbed from the north side but the most northerly one is grade V.

At the bottom of the south ridge is Lovskard saddle which can be descended on the east side via a 40 degree snow/ice filled gully down to Midtmaradalsbreen glacier. The crevassed glacier is then crossed in a north direction to reach the 'Bandet' and then down to Turtagrø. Allow 11-13 round trip from Turtagrø. For those wanting a very demanding, but superb high level traverse, right across Hurrungane, it is possible to continue from Lovskard saddle up Store Midtmaradalstind and then down to Stølsmaradalen cabin.

Details of this route from Lovskard south over Store Midtmaradalstind are given on the Store Midtmaradalstind page. This demanding traverse is likely to take around 20 hours.