Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter
Areas › Slettmark Mesmog Massif › Østre Torfinnstind › Alternative Routes
Østre Torfinnstind, together with its neighbour Midtre Torfinnstind and the peak of Vestre Torfinnstind to the west forms a very steep sided massive which is usually traversed in a single tour.
This traverse is a classic and exciting days mountaineering.
This traverse is usually done from east to west in which case the grade V section and numerous grade III and grade IV crags are abseiled rather than climbed. However, even the east-west traverse involves numerous grade II sections to climb.
The horizontal distance between these summits and the peak is about ½ km in total but it is a demanding ½ km.
- The two routes are either the South Face gully and then the top of the East Ridge and this is the usual ascent route and is described on the main page.
- The other route is the West Ridge from the deep saddle with Midtre Torfinnstind. During the east-west traverse this ridge is usually abseiled.
The West Ridge
If the traverse from east to west is undertaken then the west ridge is abseiled to the saddle with Midtre Torfinnstind. However if traversing in the revese direction the the west ridge needs to be climbed.
From the saddle, which is arrived at by descending the east ridge of Midtre Torfinnstind, there is an initially a 40 metre scramble up a steep face peppered with loose stones. The route goes up to the south side of the apex of the ridge and then curves round to approach the apex. Care must be take on this section especially in the wet although it is essentially no more than a grade II scramble. At the top of this 40 metre scramble is you reach the foot of a steep 15 metre crag.
This crag is best climbed on the south side of the ridge crest again. The climbing is grade III. At the top of this crag you reach a level area which is the top of a nose. From the top of the nose it is a fairly easy 150 metre clamber up the crest of the ridge across bare rock to reach the cairn.
If descending this ridge then it is necessary to abseil the 15 metre crag below the top of the nose keeping to the south of the main arete for the best abseil line. Thereafter carefully weave a route down the loose 40 metres on the south side of the aretes crest to the bottom of the saddle.