Slettmark Mesmog Massif

Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter

AreasSlettmark Mesmog MassifSlettmarkpiggen › Alternative Routes

There is really one route up Slettmarkpiggen which has two variations and this is up the west ridge. I have described this route on the main page.

Slettmarkpiggen in the evening light seen from the northIn addition to the interesting west ridge there is also a very challenging climb up the east ridge. This is outwith the scope of the book but some readers might find it interesting.

East Ridge

An ascent of the East Ridge starts at the saddle between Slettmarkhø and Slettmarkpiggen. Whether one approaches this saddle over the heavily crevassed Slettmarkbreen glacier to the north or the steep snow/ice fields and slabs on the south side the final approach to the saddle involves about 5 pitches of 45 degree ice or slab.

Once at the saddle and at the foot of the East Ridge the more technical climbing starts. The climbing consists of two crags separated by a fairly level 150 metre arete.

Looking down the steep East Ridge of Slettmarkpiggen to the saddle with SlettmarkhøThe lower crag is 3 pitches with the hardest at grade VI. The upper crag is 2 pitches with the hardest at grade V involving a 10m corner. The maximum length of the pitches is 40 metres.

If descending this way 2 ropes are necessary to abseil down these crags. The total time of the climb from the saddle is 3 hours but it probably takes another 3 hours to reach the saddle from Gjendebu, Torfinnsbu or Fondsbu lodges.

The descent is by the easier West Ridge and takes about 3 hours also. Allow 9-10 hours for the entire day.