Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter

Areas › Slettmark Mesmog Massif › Langedalstind › Alternative Routes

There are 3 routes up Langedalstind.

The east ridge from the saddle with Mesmogtind. As Langedalstind is usually climbed in conjunction with Mesmogtind I have described this route as the preferred route.
There is a choice of two routes up from Langedalen and then the west ridge.
There is the long traverse from Svartdalspiggen and then also up the west ridge.

From Langedalen

This is a long a difficult route and is not really an option in the spring or during the summer if wet. To shorten the route it may be preferable to camp near the outflow of the Nedre Langedalstjernet lake, especially if you want to climb Mesmogtind and/or Kvitskardtind also

Leave Torfinnsbu lodge and follow the walking route Sl.2 and Sl.3 to the outflow of Øvre Langedalstjernet, 1673m, which should take 2½-3 hours. This route takes you along Bygdin lake for 2 km then up to Nedre Langedalstjernet, which is passed on the east side, before following the stream up to Øvre Langedalstjernet. From the outflow you can decide which way is best to go. There are two potentially difficult choices: either round the west side of the lake or the east side of the lake.

If you go round the west side of the lake there are steep slabs which descend straight into the lake. These can be very difficult to pass once the ice and snow drifts at the slabs base have melted from mid summer onwards. It will be easier then to go round the east side. At the north end of the lake between the two steep buttresses clamber up a short steep gravel covered slope for 10-15 minutes to reach Langedalsbandet saddle. Just before the saddle leave this route and start to head up the steep south west ridge of Søre Svartdalspiggen.

This ridge is composed of mixed slab and vegetation and is formed into large steps. It will be necessary to thread and weave a route up through the steeper sections of 45 degree slabs keeping on the steep vegetation as you ascend the steps. It is best to keep slightly to the north of the apex of the ridge and avoid the much steeper east side. The descent of this ridge could present some difficulties, especially if it is wet. After an hours climbing the ridge you should reach the top of Søre Svartdalspiggen which is about 4-5 hours from Torfinnsbu lodge. From this rounded peak descend the short easy boulder slope to the east to reach the saddle with Langedalstind.

If you go round the east side of the lake hoping across stones and boulders for a km. If you keep above the waters edge the terrain is a bit easier. Do not go as far as the sheer buttress which almost drops straight into the lake, but stop 400 metres km before it. You should now be at the bottom of a steep slope leading up to the saddle high above. Head straight up this slope initially across scree of large stones and then onto grassy shelves and bare slippery slabs.

Once you have climbed up to the top of the scree veer east towards the summit of Langedalstind itself and you should find yourself on a sloping grassy shelf that goes halfway up the slope and provides the easiest passage. However towards the top of this grassy shelf it is necessary to cut back to the north directly up the slope through one of a few exposed gullies to gain more scree slopes on the top half of the slope. Follow these slopes up as they narrow into a gully which leads quite steeply up to the saddle between Langedalstind and Søre Svartdalspiggen. A small pair of binoculars could help you route find from below. It takes 4-5 hours to reach this saddle from Torfinnsbu lodge.

From the saddle there is still another 200 vertical metres to climb up the steep west ridge. The lower half of the ridge is quite straightforward. When the glacier on the north side comes up to the ridge the gradient steepens considerably and for the next 100 vertical metres there is some sustained but reasonably easy scrambling which eases towards the summit.

From Svartdalspiggen

From Svartdalspiggen there is an interesting traverse south over two peaks to the saddle at the foot of the west ridge of Langedalen. This traverse starts with a 40 metre abseil down the south ridge of Svartdalspiggen. This abseil can be done in two separate pitches of 20 metres each or it can be avoided by clambering across steep boulders on the west side of the mountain.

Once past this crag walk south along the ridge passing over the peaks of Midtre and Søre Svartdalspiggen until you reach the saddle. From this saddle ascent the west ridge of Langedalstind which takes about ½ hour. The lower part of this ridge is quite straightforward and the upper half involves some easy scrambling sections to grade II. More information on the ascent and traverse from Svartdalspiggen is given on that page.

Various returns

The return can be by the same route to the saddle with Søre Svartdalspiggen. From here the steep ascent route to Øvre Langedalstjernet can be reversed but unless you are familiar with this route (preferably having just ascended it) and it is dry, then do not attempt it. Instead easily climb Søre Svartdalspiggen and descend its south west ridge as described on the Svartdalspiggen page. Once in Langedalen return to Torfinnsbu lodge allowing 10-11 hours for either round trip route.

Alternatively continue east down the preferred ascent route to the saddle with Mesmogtind, climb Mesmogtind also and then return to the saddle. From this saddle traverse down to the saddle with Kvitskardtind before descending to Nedre Langedalstjernet lake to complete a marvellous and interesting traverse. If returning to Torfinnsbu lodge this should take about 12 hours. If you include Kvitskardtind also add another 3 hours.

For parties wanting more of a challenge there is the reaverse of the entire ridge complex ftom Svartdalspiggen to ØstreTorfinnstind or vice versa. This traverse takes about 24 hours and its various sections are described on the individual mountain pages.