Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter

AreasHurrunganeGjertvasstind › Alternative Routes

The final section of the east ridge of Gertvasstind seen from Sognefjellsveien roadGjertvasstind is usually climbed as a day trip from Skogadalsbøen lodge, and this is the route I have described in the main section. It is also rarely climbed from the saddle to the west, Gjertvasskardet, usually in conjunction with the traverse of the whole Styggedals ridge.

I describe the route from this saddle to the summit for the purposes of this greater ridge traverse.

See the Styggedalstind, Sentraltind and Skagastølstind pages for the other sections of this ridge.

From Gjertvasskardet ascend diagonally north west for 50-100m passing under the steep buttress at the bottom of the west ridge of Gjertvasstind.

Be wary of the bergschrund along here, which is usually quite small. This takes you to the bottom of a steep snow slope of about 45 degrees which is climbed for about 80 vertical metres.

Gjertvasstind full size mapThis snow slope often becomes icy during the summer as it melts and crampons are essential and snow/ice protection is often required.

Slabs of exposed wet rock begin to appear interspersed amongst the ice as the summer progresses but these are treacherous. These icy patches usually persist throughout the summer.

After climbing the 80 metres it is best to veer south towards the west ridge again as the gradient eases for the last 20 metres towards the summit.

The Descent

If descending to Gjertvasskardet from the summit reverse the ascent route given above, or alternatively descend then snow slopes to the north of the crest of the west ridge for 30 vertical meters then head onto the crest of the ridge itself.

The descent of the west ridge of Gjertvasstind to Gjertvasskardet saddle is steep and often requires ice protectionFrom here head down the crest of the west ridge across often wet, exposed slab formations where up to 2 of 30m abseils may be required to gain easy snow slopes above saddle. Again snow and ice conditions may vary widely on this exposed descent.

It is a good hour to ascend or descend from the saddle to the summit.